Jan
21

Artwork links are now updated

I’m now hosting my custom artwork on this site to avoid dead links. Enjoy!

Jan
20

MegaUpload closed – my artwork links are dead

Hey,

MegaUpload that hosted my custom artwork has been shut down today. I’ll try to find another hosting service or just host them myself, hopefully tonight or this weekend. Stay tuned.

Jan
16

Seimitsu LS-30 aka SNK Rotary joystick – my modifications

ls-30_modded

LS-30 with LS-32 flat mounting plate, custom dust washer and top cover

I’ve had a pair of these now rare Seimitsu LS-30 joysticks for a while, but haven’t bought any games to use them with yet. I didn’t like the state they were in when I got them and have been putting off fixing them up for the last few years since I bought them. But I recently acquired a pair of used top bits (the plastic top bit with the old Seimitsu logo) and decided to see if I can make the joystick itself any better.

The biggest flaw of the LS-30 in my opinion is that the throw is too long and it feels kinda “mushy”. This might be because I got my pair used, but I  remember this feeling from back when I was playing Heavy Barrel in the arcades in the 80′s, so maybe the compromise to get the rotary function working came with the price of the 8-way function of the stick taking the back seat.

First off, I wanted to compare the bits the joystick is built from with less rare joystick models, and I have a couple of spare bits that seemed to fit the bill. I had a Seimitsu LS-32 (not used any bits for my mod, but comparisons are below), some SANWA JLF parts (the metal washer is used, the shaft cover I didn’t use) and an Ultimarc Ultimate 360 Hard Spring that I picked up along with a SUZO 500 as I was curios if the spring would be of use in an arcade joystick. Seems I was right, as it’s very close in feel to the LS-30 spring (that’s actually even tougher, rivally the SUZO 500 spring). I did try some of the other springs I have here, like the LS-33, JLF and LS-32 one’s, but this had the perfect width and height also.

I also tried to fit the same type of microswitch used in LS-32 (I had brand new spares) but it was too loose compared to the ones fitted in my LS-30 (Matsushita brand if I recall correctly). I might pick up some SAIA BURGESS ones again with blades next time I order from Arcadeshop.de as they are the best blade fitted microswitches I’ve tried so far.

Yesterday, someone posted @ ArcadeOtaku that the LS-32 plates will fit the LS-30 (so that I can mount these with little to no hassle), with this in mind, I finally got one of these out of my storage and got to work making them decent.

LS-30 & LS-32 plastic bit comparison

comparison_2

LS-30 & LS-32 plastic bit comparison 2

spring_comparison

Spring comparison - LS-30 and Ultimarc Ultimate360 "hard spring"

Shaft cover comparison

I didn’t have a drill at hand to make the SANWA JLF shaft cover fit the LS-30 shaft, but the outer diameter is spot on, so I might get a drill so I can use these. The taller JLF cover will compact the spring a bit more, but I don’t think it will be an issue as the spring still has some space to move about.

Putting the stick together again after pulling it apart involved lots of trial and error, especially as I was trying out lots of different parts from the LS-32 (nothing really worked well) but I finally got a result that feels really good. The spring was getting stuck a lot and the centering wasn’t consistent, so I tried lots of washers until it struck me that I did have some JLF parts. The JLF metal washer fit perfectly under the microswitches, stopping the shaft cover from going through the hole.

jlf_washer

SANWA JLF metal washer

I installed everything in this order:

1. Install the SANWA washer (like pictured above)
2. Install the small plastic washer (same diameter as the shaft cover)
3. Install the microswitches
4. Install the metal bracked with 4 screws that hold the microswitches in place
5. Put the spring on the shaft against the e-clip that sits above the square rotary PCB at the bottom of the shaft
6. Install the LS-30 metal washer (this was placed where I put the SANWA JLF washer when I took this apart)
7. Install the bigger plastic washer with the “rim” pointing upwards
8. Put the shaft through the bottom of the joystick body
9. Install the shaft cover and press it down until you can install…
10. …the top e-clip

Now, the joystick should feel very nice and the bottom part will look like this:

parts_order

Order of the parts

If you want to install it in a panel, no need to put the yellow handle on yet as it’ll be too big. Also, you can’t get a dustwasher on the shaft with the top e-clip on, I had just put my washer on to take a nice picture (custom washer courtesy of BlingStix):

Custom dust washer - same size as the ones that comes with JLF shaft covers

Finally, I noticed that the old top parts with the Seimitsu logo on reminded me of the face part of arcade pushbuttons in both shape and size, so I pulled some HAPP buttons out and disassembled it and what do you know, the size was perfect and the colour is really close!

new_top_comparison

Top part compared to HAPP arcade pushbutton

Then I test fitted it in the LS-30 top part:

new_top_test_fit

Test fit is successful - LIKE A GLOVE!

Excited of this new find, I cut off the “prong” things from the button and got this result:

new_top

Brand new top replacement - on the cheap

This was a mistake sort of, as I now have to drill it to get it out without damaging my handle. *facepalm* But I was just that excited I guess. And the buttons are really cheap (I have more yellow ones just laying around) so it’s no big deal. The HAPP Competition buttons will probably look even better as they are the same shape of the LS-30 top, but I’m really happy with the results of this cheap solution, and unless you know how the original looks, you wouldn’t know.

I need to find some screws that fit the holes that hold the LS-32 plate though as only one of my sticks has the original LS-30 plate and the holes for them sit  just above the microswitches’ spades, but that’s about it. Next up is installing these in my 2 player panel and getting a rotary game to try, like the awesome Midnight Resistance. :)

I hope this helps for other owners of these sticks!

Jan
11

Not much going on

Right now it’s slow at casa Emphatic. But I have a nice little project on the way, I’m still collecting the bits needed, then I’ll start planning and finally, the build will be done and presented here. I’m saving my funds for my most treasured PCB ever as the new job has gotten me to buy more arcade stuff.

I’m also waiting for some cool arcade parts to try out (not only joysticks) and I hope to make some more articles/guides to publish soon. I do get some questions from time to time, and hopefully, some sort of beginner level arcade hardware guide can ease more people into the arcade hobby. I will write a list of recommended parts based on my experience as it might come in handy for someone, somewhere.

Take care, dear readers.

Dec
14

SUZO 500 Rubber edition

I was browsing eBay and found a SUZO 500 that had gray plastic at the base instead of the red I normally find in arcade parts stores online. I know that joystick guru Kowal has mentioned that there used to exist an older revision of these sticks that had a rubber grommet doing all the shaft centering instead of that poor plastic pivot piece that’s in use in the “red versions” with the hard springs.

I contacted the seller and he informed me that this was indeed the rubber grommet version. I immediately bought one and it arrived a couple of days ago. I promptly installed it into one of my EGRET II cabinets, switching out a “red version” SUZO 500 with a custom shaft. The rubber version came with CHERRY microswitches that has a bit bigger connectors than the OMRON I had installed, so I just took the middle part (with the switches) from the spring SUZO and put it on the rubber one (all parts seem to be perfectly interchangeable btw) and it’s now installed in my cabinet. Sometime when I have some daylight available (Sweden feels like it’s dark almost 24 hrs a day when you have a dayjob) I’ll try to shoot a short video of the stick’s performance.

I took a couple of pictures of the stick while I changed the shaft and switch base, one with an “exploded view” showing all the parts (notice how the plastic on the shaft has a way smaller ball than the newer spring based 500′s):

SUZO Rubber edition exploded view

SUZO Rubber edition exploded view

And here’s a close up of the rubber grommet:

 

SUZO rubber grommet

SUZO rubber grommet

I wonder if there’s some rubber pice available that could be used for the newer 500′s or perhaps even other stick brands. It would be interesting to try a Seimitsu with a rubber grommet. :)

Oct
17

More CAVE games emulated in MAME

As of right now, the following CAVE SH3 titles have preliminary (still no sound and hardware slowdown not emulated properly) drivers in MAME:

DeathSmiles
ESPGALUDA II
Ibara
Ibara Kuro (Black Label)
Muchi Muchi Pork (apparently, I haven’t seen the rom files yet)
Mushihimesama
Mushihimesama Futari 1.0
Mushihimesama Futari 1.54
Mushihimetama

Also added (I haven’t checked this out personally) is the Blue version of Guwange!!! I also believe that Pink Sweets has been dumped, but as I write this, I don’t know if it’s emulated yet. Pretty cool stuff.

Updated with a few title screens (don’t mind the fake scanlines, I added them):

 

Oct
17

New arrivals in the Vertical PCB section

I traded my Metal Slug 3 and Metal Slug 4 MVS carts with a great guy in the UK and now I have Rush & Crash and Super Space Invaders ’91!

Both games are titles I grew up playing and I’ve always wanted these in my collection.

Aug
21

Batrider GET!

I got to buy this with split payments (thanks a lot, Jens) and now I have another Yagawa game to punish me when I feel masochistic. I bet it’s gonna feel great.

Also had some of my custom artwork printed out and this is how it looks when applied to the instruction holder on my EGRET II:

Aug
16

Traded away some MVS carts

Blazing Star and Last Resort has left the building.

Aug
16

ESPGALUDA II custom move strip added to the artwork section

Click the link in the main menu or here to go there.

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